Our African safari ended at the lodge closest to the falls, but the incessant brain-rattling thump-thump-thump of scenic helicopter flights all through the day drove us to seek alternative accommodation away from downtown. Insika Lodge proved to be the perfect capstone to our weeks of adventure: huge gorgeous rooms, friendly and attentive staff, delicious meals, and no ambient Apocalypse Now soundtrack of choppers beating the air. We loved watching the resident mongooses roam the grounds, appreciated having USB charging ports on both sides of the massive bed, luxuriated in having *two* separate rainfall shower faucets, and were grateful for shuttle driver Carlton’s above-and-beyond assistance in making trips to and from the border outside of his set schedule. We also highly recommend Insika’s river cruise—their private vessel is extremely comfortable and attractively appointed. Captain Evidence is as well-versed in birds, wildlife, and photography as he is in safely navigating the Zambezi, and his crew, Munya and Freeman, amazed us all with the cornucopia of excellent food and drink that they conjured from the minuscule galley and bar.