Our week has been a delight from start to finish, with Debbie and Chris the perfect hosts. We can only echo what others have said about the quality of accommodation and facilities and the magical location. The house is spacious and very well-equipped, with plenty of communal and private spaces. The huge lawn, terrace (good for morning yoga!) and private shoreline with spectacular views meant we were outside on every possible occasion. The silence is striking – absolutely no traffic sounds, and perfect peace only enhanced by a backdrop of birds, animals and water sounds.
We are self-confessed ‘bird nerds’, and the variety of birds and wildlife kept us enthralled. Every day there were sightings of curlew, heron, little egret, gannet, oystercatcher, cormorant, hooded crow, redshank, rock pipit, stonechat, swallow, sand martin, and the sound but not sight of the elusive corncrake … plus many more we didn’t identify. We enjoyed trying to spot the family of otters who apparently play on the lawn too!
The bay is safe for kayaking and swimming. No sandy beaches, but the rocky shoreline is wonderful for walking, paddling and rock-pooling, and when the tide is out you can walk far across the mudflats.
With so much time spent in the bay we didn’t explore the surrounding area as much as we could have – definitely 2 weeks needed for that. The nearest village, Durrus, is good for provisions, pubs and walks; Bantry has a large supermarket and a fun Friday market. Schull is a pretty town with great harbour views. The Sheep’s Head peninsular is the place for a wild walk, reached by increasingly narrow, windy mountain roads: don’t attempt to bring a camper van here! The road to Mizen Head (the most south-westerly tip of Ireland) is similarly wild and scenic, and we enjoyed walking across the arched bridge to the old lighthouse. Exhilarating views of the open sea and the Fastnet lighthouse, and again, great birding: chough and gannet among the stars. Excellent café too.
We regret not having time for one of the boat trips, especially the whale-watching trip from Baltimore, and there are miles of ‘Wild Atlantic’ coastline still to explore. Barley Cove, glimpsed from the car on the way back from the Mizen, looks like a Caribbean atoll – acres of white sand, turquoise sea, nestled between mountains – shame we didn’t have time to stop and explore.
This was a magical, all-too-short holiday that entranced all of our three-generational party. We will return!